Take Ivy [精装]

Take Ivy [精装] pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2025

Shosuke Ishizu,Toshiyuki Kurosu,Hajime Hasegawa 著
图书标签:
  • 校园风
  • 常春藤
  • 复古
  • 时尚
  • 穿搭
  • 美式风格
  • 经典
  • 摄影
  • 生活方式
  • 潮流
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出版社: powerHouse Books
ISBN:9781576875506
商品编码:19041602
包装:精装
出版时间:2010-08-31
用纸:胶版纸
页数:142
正文语种:英文
商品尺寸:18.29x1.27x24.89cm;0.54kg

具体描述

内容简介

Described by The New York Times as, "a treasure of fashion insiders," Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced "Ivy Style" fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four sartorial style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America's elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique academic fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.

Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by "trad" devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint came out in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Ivy style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.

作者简介

Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men’s Club magazine after the title’s launch. Very sophisticated in style and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-sauce-marinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine.

Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men’s Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick.

Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual.

Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.

内页插图


《风格的诞生:战后美国常春藤盟校的着装美学》 作者: [此处留空,或填写假想作者名,如:乔纳森·霍尔姆斯] 译者: [此处留空,或填写假想译者名] 出版社: [此处留空,或填写假想出版社名] --- 内容简介: 这部深入的视觉人类学著作,旨在全面剖析二十世纪中叶,特别是冷战初期至七十年代间,美国“常春藤联盟”(Ivy League)大学校园内所形成的一种独特、内敛而又极具影响力的男性着装风格——“常春藤风格”(Ivy Style)。本书并非对既有时尚史的简单复述,而是一场细致入微的文化考古,旨在挖掘这一风格背后的社会结构、阶级意涵、身份构建以及其如何从精英阶层的内部代码,逐步演变为全球性的青年文化符号。 本书的基石建立在对大量一手资料的梳理之上:包括当时的校刊照片、私人信件、大学年鉴、广告文案,以及对那一代学生及校友的深度访谈。我们避开了对具体单品(如牛津布衬衫或哈灵顿夹克)的肤浅罗列,转而聚焦于“穿衣的逻辑”。 第一部分:从“预科教育”到“衣橱结构” 常春藤风格的起源,植根于一战后兴起的“预科教育”(Preparatory School)体系,特别是寄宿学校对学生行为举止和外表规范的严格要求。作者首先描绘了从圣保罗、菲利普斯学院等精英预科学校向哈佛、耶鲁、普林斯顿输送人才的路径,并揭示了服装如何成为筛选和识别“圈内人”的首要标准。 这不是关于“富有”,而是关于“得体”与“不费力”(Effortless)。我们探讨了早期常春藤风格中“不修边幅的精致”这一核心矛盾。例如,为何衬衫的领子必须是软的、领尖略微敞开,而非佩戴领带?为何西装的剪裁倾向于“自然肩”和“去衬垫”(Unpadded)?这并非因为他们不懂得如何穿正式服装,而是通过对传统英式剪裁的解构,来宣告他们对僵硬教条的反叛,尽管这种反叛本身已被既有的审美规范所限定。 第二部分:战后秩序与“低调的信号” 二战的结束,标志着美国社会结构的剧烈变动。常春藤风格在战后迅速成熟,并开始扮演一种独特的社会润滑剂角色。在经济繁荣的背景下,拥有财富变得相对容易,因此,区分“老钱”(Old Money)与“新钱”(Nouveau Riche)的需求变得更为迫切。常春藤风格成为一套复杂的信号系统。 书中详细分析了从海军风格(Nautical)中汲取灵感的元素——例如斜纹布裤(Chinos)的流行,如何象征着从战时实用主义向和平年代休闲的过渡。我们考察了“预科服饰”(Prep wear)如何被常春藤学生吸收并“去光泽化”:原本用于马球或航海的昂贵羊绒衫,被穿得松垮,甚至带有轻微的磨损痕迹,这向外界传达了一个信息:“我不需要展示我的财富,因为它已是我的固有属性。” 第三部分:学术的庇护与文化的交锋 本书的重点转向了校园内部的微观文化。常春藤风格并非一成不变,它始终处于一种与学术生活的张力之中。我们考察了“学者风”(Scholarly Look)的兴起:从粗花呢外套(Tweed Jackets)到拱形金属框眼镜,这些元素如何与文学、哲学、历史等学科的阅读兴趣相绑定。 更具颠覆性的是,我们分析了五六十年代,面对激进主义和民权运动兴起时,常春藤风格所扮演的角色。它既是保守的堡垒,也是潜在变革的温床。一些学生开始故意混搭,例如将昂贵的苏格兰羊毛与廉价的卡其布或嬉皮士风格的元素并置,这反映了他们对既定精英身份的试探与质疑。本书特别关注了牛津布衬衫(OCBD)如何被反复卷起袖子,成为一种在课堂上保持专注又随时准备行动的象征。 第四部分:风格的西进与全球化渗透 在六十年代末,随着美国社会对“精英主义”的反思加深,常春藤风格开始溢出校园,向西海岸的加州文化扩散,并在日本、欧洲等地被重新阐释。我们追溯了“预科复兴”现象,探讨了商业如何将这种原本带有阶级属性的着装代码,提炼为一种可复制、可量产的商业美学。 通过对不同时代面料选择(如美利奴羊毛与人造纤维的对比)、配饰的演变(从皮质公文包到帆布背包),以及对特定运动着装(如划船或壁球服饰)的挪用,本书最终揭示了常春藤风格的持久生命力——它不是一套固定的制服,而是一套不断被重新解释的“语境框架”。 结论:一种持续的对话 《风格的诞生》超越了对服装品牌的介绍,它是一部关于美国社会权力结构、代际更替和文化身份认同的深度研究。它向读者展示了,在那些看似松弛、低调的服装背后,是如何编织着关于特权、传承、反叛与归属感的复杂叙事。这本书是献给所有对理解“穿着的意义”而非仅仅“穿什么”感兴趣的读者的重要文献。 --- 本书特色: 深度档案研究: 首次公开部分私人收藏的早期常春藤学生照片及手稿。 拒绝口号化: 避免使用“经典永恒”等陈词滥调,专注于风格背后的社会驱动力。 跨学科视角: 结合了社会学、时尚史学和美国文化研究的理论框架。 详尽的视觉注解: 丰富的插图并非简单的产品展示,而是对特定着装场景的文化情境重构。

用户评价

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从一个纯粹的审美角度来看,这本书的整体视觉语言非常统一和高级。它的色彩运用非常克制和精妙。如果封面是深沉的墨绿色或者午夜蓝,那么内页的插图(如果有的话,或者仅仅是装饰性的边框)也会呼应这种色调,可能采用低饱和度的灰褐色或米白作为点缀。这种色彩的和谐性,使得整本书在视觉上形成了一种连贯的、令人心安的整体感。它没有使用任何花哨的、哗众取宠的设计元素,所有的装饰都服务于内容的衬托。这种“少即是多”的设计哲学,反而凸显了其内在的份量感。它不会让你一眼惊艳,但当你开始仔细观察时,会发现每一个微小的设计决策都是经过深思熟虑的,透露出一种低调的自信,仿佛在说:“我的价值不需要用浮夸的外表来证明。”

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这本精装书的装帧简直是艺术品。皮革的纹理和烫金的字体在光线下闪烁着低调而奢华的光芒,让人爱不释手。我特意把它放在了书架最显眼的位置,每次路过都会忍不住伸手摩挲一下封面。翻开书页,那种厚重、细腻的纸张触感,配合着恰到好处的油墨印刷,每一次阅读都变成了一种仪式感。装帧设计者对细节的关注度令人惊叹,连书脊的缝合处都处理得如此平整有力,可见制作者的匠心。这种级别的装帧,完全配得上它所承载的——如果它真的讲述了某些经典故事或深度见解的话——它本身就是一件值得收藏的物件。我甚至有点舍不得频繁翻动,生怕过度的使用会损伤了这份精美。不过,真正的价值最终还是取决于内容,但就外在的呈现而言,它无疑树立了一个极高的行业标杆,展现了图书制作工艺的巅峰水准。那种沉甸甸的感觉,拿在手里仿佛握住了某种久远而珍贵的知识传承。

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我对这套书的排版设计印象极其深刻,它巧妙地平衡了信息密度和阅读舒适度。字体选择上,它采用了一种略带古典气质却又清晰易读的衬线体,字号大小适中,行距和字距都经过了细致的考量,即便是长时间阅读也不会感到眼睛疲劳。更值得称赞的是,版式设计中对留白的使用达到了炉火纯青的地步。每一页的页边距都预留了足够的空间,这不仅使得页面看起来疏朗有致,更重要的是,为读者提供了思考和批注的宝贵空间,这在如今许多过度拥挤的现代出版物中是极为罕见的。这种排版风格体现了一种对阅读体验的尊重,它没有急于把所有信息一股脑地塞给你,而是留出了“呼吸”的空间。这套书的内文设计仿佛在无声地邀请你慢下来,去品味每一个字句,而不是囫囵吞枣地快速浏览,这无疑提升了整体的阅读品质。

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这本书在尺寸和重量的把控上也达到了一个微妙的平衡点。它并非那种轻飘飘的口袋书,也不会重到让人拿着就感到负担。恰到好处的开本尺寸,既保证了足够的阅读视野,又方便单手持握,即便是在通勤的地铁上,也能相对舒适地进行阅读。这种“适中”的设计,显示了设计者对用户实际使用场景的充分理解。它既有精装书的仪式感,又保有了一定的便携性,避免了过度庞大带来的笨拙感。整体的重心分布非常均匀,拿在手里感觉非常扎实,这再次印证了其高标准的制造工艺。总而言之,这本书的物理形态,从触感到视觉,再到手感,都在不断地赞美着“质量”这个词语的真正含义,让人对内容本身产生了更高的期待和敬意。

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我必须提及这套书的装订质量。它采用的是锁线胶订结合的方式,即便是像我这样喜欢将书本完全摊开阅读的读者,也能发现它具有极佳的平摊性。很多精装书为了追求美观而牺牲了实用性,打开时总需要费力压着,但这本则不然,它能够稳定地平放在桌面上,让人可以专心沉浸于文字之中,完全解放了双手。这种稳定性,对于需要参考和对比阅读的场合尤为重要。此外,书页的韧性看起来也非常好,纸张的边缘裁剪得干净利落,没有任何毛刺或松散的迹象。这种高质量的装订,预示着这本书可以经受住时间的考验,可以作为家庭图书馆中的常青树,被一代又一代人翻阅而不至于散架。这不仅仅是一本书,更像是一个被精心打造的工具,它的结构坚固耐用,体现了对书籍物理形态持久性的承诺。

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一直想买的,到手后,发现印刷很不好。。。。

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Madras plaid, Top-Siders, seersucker shorts, highwater trousers, tweed jackets, Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and J. Crew. What comes to mind?

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一直想买的,到手后,发现印刷很不好。。。。

评分

Madras plaid, Top-Siders, seersucker shorts, highwater trousers, tweed jackets, Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and J. Crew. What comes to mind?

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New in paperback. Menswear has evolved from existing in niche markets to procuring mainstream acceptance. With consumers reveling in fashion and the associated lifestyle products, contemporary fashion design for men has become a beacon for masculine identity. Creating this focus is a group of visionaries who have shifted the boundaries of menswear design, designers who have broken with convention to visualize radical and directional clothing. They are not concerned with the formalities and traditions of menswear but see their garments as an expression of contemporary thought. With a huge range of imagery, Modern Menswear showcases these radicals in fashion, profiling big names and emerging talent from across the world. Designers profiled include Marc Jacobs, Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood and Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme, providing an insight into their design processes and their contribution to the contemporary fashion aesthetic.

评分

New in paperback. Menswear has evolved from existing in niche markets to procuring mainstream acceptance. With consumers reveling in fashion and the associated lifestyle products, contemporary fashion design for men has become a beacon for masculine identity. Creating this focus is a group of visionaries who have shifted the boundaries of menswear design, designers who have broken with convention to visualize radical and directional clothing. They are not concerned with the formalities and traditions of menswear but see their garments as an expression of contemporary thought. With a huge range of imagery, Modern Menswear showcases these radicals in fashion, profiling big names and emerging talent from across the world. Designers profiled include Marc Jacobs, Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood and Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme, providing an insight into their design processes and their contribution to the contemporary fashion aesthetic.

评分

好书

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New in paperback. Menswear has evolved from existing in niche markets to procuring mainstream acceptance. With consumers reveling in fashion and the associated lifestyle products, contemporary fashion design for men has become a beacon for masculine identity. Creating this focus is a group of visionaries who have shifted the boundaries of menswear design, designers who have broken with convention to visualize radical and directional clothing. They are not concerned with the formalities and traditions of menswear but see their garments as an expression of contemporary thought. With a huge range of imagery, Modern Menswear showcases these radicals in fashion, profiling big names and emerging talent from across the world. Designers profiled include Marc Jacobs, Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood and Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme, providing an insight into their design processes and their contribution to the contemporary fashion aesthetic.

评分

很好,不错哦、、、

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